Unwelcome Garden Guests

Every now and then when I was in my teens,  my family used to slather on the bug repellent and sunscreen and take our alaskan malamute with us for day hikes up in the hills around where we lived.   She loved it. So did the ticks.  Inevitably, within a day or two of our hikes I was helping my mother pull these little vermin off the dog.  I'd feel crawly for days afterwards.

In the region of California in which I was raised, deer ticks are very common in the grassy places where people often love to hike and camp. Learning to recognize ticks was just like learning to recognize poison oak.  They were a fact of life if one wanted to enjoy the great outdoors. Aside from dealing with the dog,  I never had any trouble with them on me. Probably because I made good use of bug repellent. That hasn't stopped me from being a little unnerved at the thought of encountering them on my person.

So, when I saw what looked suspiciously like a tick crawling around on a branch I had just pruned from a long-neglected shrubbery this morning, I got that old creepy-crawly feeling again.  Ewwww.  It's so easy to forget about such things in the supposed civilized safety of one's own backyard. Thank goodness I had been using the rake instead of my hands to load the pile of cuttings into the wheelbarrow.

American Dog Tick (Photo Source)

After a tick check and a run for the bug repellent, I finished my work (still using the rake of course), tossed my gardening clothes straight into the washing machine, checked myself again and ran for the shower. This time I appear to be unscathed, but I shall be more careful in the future.

In my transition to Texas from California, I have had to learn a few new things and re-learn a few old things. Fortunately, what I know about ticks applies in both places.

Ticks like wooded areas, thick shrubberies, and tall grass, so consider the following if you plan to be in such places:

• Wear light colored clothing, to make ticks easier to see.
• If you can, wear long pants and sleeves, and tuck them into your socks/gloves.   This can be difficult in hot regions.  If you are a "belts and suspenders" type of person, you can also use some old shoelaces to tie off the bottom part of your pants to make doubly sure. Just tie them too tight. You still need circulation in your feet!  
• Wear insect repellent that is labeled as effective for ticks. Treat clothes and exposed skin, following label directions. (I'm usually not crazy about chemical repellents such as DEET. If I'm just going to a barbecue, I usually wear a bug band to keep mosquitoes off, but for hiking or gardening in a tick-infested area, I make an exception.)
• Check yourself thoroughly for ticks upon coming indoors. Pay special attention to all cracks, crannies, and crevices, and places covered by hair or close-fitting parts of your clothing.  Use a mirror or a spouse to help you check hard to see places.
• Take a shower and wash your clothing as soon as possible. (CDC recommends within two hours.)  If you've been playing in the dirt or hiking, chances are you'll be hot and sweaty and will want to do this anyway.
• Keep pets indoors if you can, check them often if you can't. Give them flea/tick preventatives regularly either way.
• If you find one attached to you or your pet, see the links below for more information on removal and symptoms of tick-borne disease. If you develop such symptoms, seek medical care.

A few links:
Tickinfo.com
Texas A&M Tick Research Labaratory
The Gulf Coast Tick (TAMU profile)
UC Davis: Ticks of California
Control Biting Pests in the Organic Garden
Consumer Reports: Tick Control with Landscaping Techniques
Centers for Disease Control Tick Info Page
The Big Game Hunt: Preventing Tick-Borne Disease
P. Allen Smith: Tick Control
DogsAndTicks.com
ASPCA Tick Page
CatHealth.com: Tick Parasites of Cats

Sophora Secundiflora (Texas Mountain Laurel)

Right around the first of March, I saw these on my Sophora secundiflora (a.k.a. Texas Mountain Laurel or Mescal Bean):


I had been somewhat concerned, since this plant has done nothing since I planted it last June. I was hoping that I had been able to keep the soil alkaline enough for it when I added amendments. (This species, being native to Texas, actually likes alkaline soils.) Somebody I met recently said that her landscapers made the mistake of planting hers in soil that was too acid, and the plant refused to grow until this was rectified.

Above is a later shot, taken some days later when the flowers opened more.



The photos below were taken toward the end of last week





Already, as of last Saturday, the flowers began to wilt, and seed pods are forming in their place.

There is also new growth on this plant. I will post pictures of this later.


I saw several larger specimens of Texas Mountain Laurel during a recent trip to San Antonio. They appear to be quite common over there. Some were trained as trees, and others were left to grow as large shrubs. Either way, there is nothing quite like being downwind from a large one of these when it is in full bloom. The fragrance is incredible! Some say resembles grape kool-aid, but I'd say I like it even better.


I believe I read someplace (I can't remember where now) that, as a legume, S. secundiflora fixes nitrogen, making them good neighbors for nitrogen-loving plants.

Incidentally, the seeds and pods from this plant are very poisonous and should not be ingested.

Happy Valentine's Day!

Time to prune those roses! (And other shrubs)

Photo by Aaron. Used with permission.

This is also a great time for transplanting any tropical fruit or citrus trees.

Blackspot resistant roses.

Here is a list from a Purdue University website. It includes hybrid tea, florubunda, grandiflora, climbing, Rugosa hybrid, shrub, and miniature rose cultivars (including Knock-out). Some of the shrub roses listed I recognize from Antique rose lists I have seen.

Surinam Cherry (Eugenia uniflora) Profile and links

Photo Source: Australian-Insects.com

Common Names: Brazil/Brazilian cherry, Cayenne cherry, pitanga, Florida cherry
Nativity: Introduced to US from Brazil
Category: Subtropical/Tropical/Tender perennial
Landscape uses: bush, hedge
Height: to 25 feet
Spacing: 10-12 feet
Habit: Tree/Shrub
Growth Rate: Slow
Duration: Perennial
Flowers: White, spring to early summer, depending on climate
Fruit: Red, sweet, edible, approx 3 weeks after flowers
Soil: acidic-neutral. Tolerates most soils and textures. Does not tolerate salt.
Light: Full sun to part shade
Water Needs: Average. Do not over or under water.
USDA Hardiness Zones: 10-11 (to 30 °F) (established plants known to survive temps to 22°F with minor damage)
Propagation: From seed in spring. Collect from overripe fruit.
Toxicity: Seeds should not be eaten. Odor of pruned plants may irritate lungs of sensitive individuals.

This plant is listed as invasive in the state of Florida, and is known to set seed in areas where the climate is friendly to young plants.

These can be grown in 5 gal or larger containers in areas where it will be necessary to move them to shelter during a freeze.

A close relative of Eugenia Aggregata.

Links:
From Purdue University
Dave's Garden
USDA Plants Database
Plants of Hawaii

Native Shrubs for Black Gumbo Soil

I recently posted a list of Native Trees that do well in the "Black Gumbo" soil we have here.

Here is the companion list of native shrubs that thrive in the same poorly drained conditions.

As was the case with the tree list, I have a list of shrubs that I printed out from the Native Plant Society of Houston website back in July, which has now disappeared from the web.

Fortunately, someone else has posted the same lists on Livejournal--with pictures.

But, just in case that vanishes too, I include the names of the shrubs here. I have no idea who the original author is, or I would be sure to list his or her name.

Strawberry Bush (Euonymus americana) is named after its fruit which resemble strawberries (not edible). the 1" scarlet fruits remain through fall, splitting open to show orange-red seeds. this upright shrub has green stems and deciduous leaves that turn bright red in the fall.


Wax Myrtle (Myrica cerifera) is an evergreen shrub or small tree to 18'. it is extremely tolerant after getting established. the leaves have a pleasant scent when brushed against. the tiney 1/8" gray berries are eaten by 40 different species of birds. there is a dwarf wax myrtle (myrica pusilla) which gets six feet tall or less and only tolerates dry soil.


Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) is a deciduous shrub that lives in in shallow water (up to 6") or plant in the ground. if you want butterflies get buttonbush. the late may to fall repeat blooms are perfectly round white balls with a heavy perfume. the bark has a speckled appearance and the fall nutlets are a favorite of waterfowl.


Virginia Sweetspire (Itlea virginica) has fragrant drooping white spires in spring. this 5' shrub has fall color ranging from yellow, orange, red and purple; in mild winters you get to enjoy these changing colors until spring.


Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria) is an area-native evergreen shrub or small tree to 25' with stiff branches that make a dense cover that birds like to nest in. the birds like to eat the translucent red berries which are hard so they leave them on the tree all winter. yaupon is so adaptable it tolerates sun or shade and wet or dry soil.


Possumhaw Holly (Ilex decidua) loses its leavfes and is bare all winter. however, the female shurb or small tree is loaded with red berries all winter and is a standout.


Ti-ti ("tye-tye") or Leatherwood (Cyrilla racemiflora) is an outstanding semi-evergreen shrub that will grow in standing water (up to 6") or planted in the ground. in late may the fragrant white flower spikes look like petticoats. in summer the fruits turn rust color or ivory. in fall some of the leaves turn bright red and stay on the bush making a colorful picture.


Dwarf Palmetto (sabal minor) is a hardy, evergreen, fan-shaped palm. the stems are underground and the large leaves can reach 5'. it sends up a long bloom stalk to 6', with a spray of fragrant whitish blooms then it has fruit like black grapes which birds devour.


Possumhaw Viburnum (Viburnum nudum) has white flower clusters in march which turn into clusters of tiny pink, then blue-black fruit which taste like raisins. birds love the fruits too. possumhaw has outstanding wine-red fall color.


Salt Marsh Mallow (Kosteletzkya virginica) upright, branching shrub to 6 feet; grows in wet, often saline soils. the mallow forms dense showy clumps and the gray-green pointed leaves are fuzzy. 2 to 3" pink hibiscus-like flowers bloom from june - november and attract hummingbirds and swallowtail butterflies.

Bougainvillea

Bougainvilleas are wonderful because they look their best when they are abused.. These South American natives bloom the most when they are hot, underwatered, and their roots are constricted--which is why around here it is best to keep them in containers. They can be trained as just about anything from groundcover, to shrub, to tree (If they are properly supported), to climbing vine. Woohoo! My kind of plant.

They are pretty thorny, though, so make sure your hands and arms are properly protected when you handle them.

Bougainvillea "La Jolla". Photo Source: Desert-Tropicals.com

I recently got a "Sundown" and a "San Diego Red" (a.k.a. "La Jolla"). Both are pretty, but with the weather cooling down, it's time to think about protecting them.

For the time being, during the last two cold nights we have had, I have put them under a kind of temporary lean-to shelter against the house on my back porch, involving a frost cloth purchased at my local nursery and plenty of duct tape. While this kept my more tender plants about 10 degrees warmer than the open air, it will become impractical in the middle of winter, and as there is no room in my garage, I have had to look for other options. This means, of course that I have been spending a lot of time with Google.

From what I have seen, the universal bottom line is don't let them freeze. They sometimes die back or go dormant during colder months, but usually bounce back later if their roots are properly protected.

Phil and Jean Hovey recommend sheltering them fron any temperatures below 40 degrees, hence the little makeshift lean-to mentioned above. This Southeast Texas gardening website recommends protecting them from temps 50 degrees or below. Some people suggest leaving them in the garage or in the house one freezing temperatures begin, and only watering them once per month, before returning them to the outdoors after all danger of frost is past. Greenhouses can be handy too. I plan to keep mine in a temporary pop-out greenhouse, once I get my hands on one.

As they are only hardy to zones 9-11, plants in colder regions need to be especially well protected.


I couldn't possibly cover everything in a single blog post, so here, then, are some bougainvillea links for your perusal.

Plant Profiles:
Floridata
Wikipedia


General Care Tips:
Southeast Texas Gardening: Growing Bougainvillea
PlantAnswers.com
Texas A&M Plant Answers
Plant-Care.com

Keeping Plumbagos Pretty

I have a little Plumbago auriculata (a.k.a Cape Leadwort) in a pot that I bought earlier in the fall, but it became a little neglected last month while I was ill, and went on a kind of blooming strike due to lack of water. I have been watering it faithfully for weeks, but it is only now showing signs of revival, despite the relatively warm weather.


So I did a little looking for things to do for a plumbago that is not blooming. One suggestion was to

Fertilize with milk--1 Tablespoon per gallon every two weeks. (Tried this today; we'll see if it helps.). The other idea I saw was avoiding over fertilizing by using half of the fertilizer recommended by package instructions. One also needs to avoid overwatering as well as underwatering.

Beyond that, I have no further ideas at this time. I miss those little blue flowers. :(

Photo Source: Texas Cooperative Extension: Perennials for Texas Landscapes

More Plumbago Links:

Texas A&M University: Blue-Blooming Vitex and Plumbago: Butterflies Love 'Em, Deer Don't
Dave's Garden plant profile
USDA Plant profile
Floridata Profile

Search: Pruning roses

With cold weather approaching, several people have dropped by searching for information on pruning knockout and double knockout roses. Many of them end up at my post "Double Knockout Roses Kick Lantanas' Butt", which does not have specific information on when and how to prune knockout and other roses.


The good people at the nursery where I purchased my plants indicated that they handle pruning (and just about everything else) very well.

With any rose, it is a good idea to cut off any diseased or dead canes. It is also a good idea to make sure no canes are rubbing against one another. This light cutting can be done any time of year.

If you feel like dead heading (not required for knockout roses to perform), they way my mother taught me was to cut the stem above the first set of five leaves, at a 45 degree angle, with the lower edge of the cut on the same side as the leaves. When I lived in coastal California, this was most of what I did with my roses. Heavy pruning never really entered into the picture because of the mildness of the climate.

Around here, the traditional time for yearly rose pruning is around mid-February, usually on or near Valentine's Day. This way, any new growth isn't as likely to be zapped by excessive cold. For colder regions, this might vary. In general, it is my understanding that roses do not need to be pruned in preparation for winter, unless this will help you shelter them more effectively.

I have heard that heavy pruning of knockouts or any other shrub rose for the first two years after they have been planted is generally not recommended. This gives your shrub rose time to mature. Mine are still new and very short, so I don't think I'll be doing much in the pruning department this year.

As far as how to go about it, that's up to you. Some people just take an electric hedge trimmer and prune their roses into shapes. I have seen some used as box hedges around town. Since I personally prefer my roses to be in a more natural shape, I will not be doing that.

This page suggests pruning knockouts in the same way as other shrub roses. For spring pruning of most roses, the Houston Garden Book also recommends thinning the small branches out until there are three to five hardy main stems left. It also suggests using directional pruning techniques to encourage a vase-like growth habit. This means cutting canes down just above a bud that is pointing in the direction in which you want the stem of the plant to grow. For more on what that is, and for step-by-step spring pruning directions click here.

For those interested in pruning your knockouts back for the winter, here is a short article on winterizing roses in Southern climates.

I like to use shears like this when I cut my roses:

Photo Source

Shears such as those shown above are easy to get at most hardware stores.

I also recommend wearing some good sturdy gardening gloves to protect your hands and arms from thorns. I have a long pair, specifically made for handling roses and other thorny plants. They have thick leather palms, and they go up to my elbows. I have even used these while handling bougainvilleas, which have thorns up to an inch long, and also while playing with a visiting cat who dropped by while I was planting my roses, and they have protected me well against thorns, claws and teeth. :) I could not find any at the larger home and garden centers where I live (Lowe's, Home Depot). I ended up going to a local nursery.


Here is a post with links to more information on winterizing your roses.

Read my other posts on Double Knockout roses.

Planting Knockouts

Somebody from Missouri was searching for information about how to plant double knockout roses.

As with any rose, if it is in a container, the basic procedure is to dig a hole a little bigger than the root ball, and put the rose in it. The top of the root ball should be an inch or two above the surrounding bed. Water it in, and add a layer of mulch.

For Double Knockout roses, the label recommends spacing of 3-4 feet.

Even though Knockouts in their various forms are supposed to be able to take any kind of soil conditions, I did amend the soil in my bed a bit with some organic planting mix and a little leaf mold compost. Because of the drainage issues in this area though, I did not dig my amendments in too deep. I also added a little bone meal to the bottom of the holes I dug for them, to encourage root growth. As this bed had been mulched last spring, I moved the mulch layer out of the way before planting, and put it back afterward. I may add a new layer of mulch before the cold weather really gets going. Time will tell us if they happy in their new location.

For bare root roses, which were what I preferred when I lived in California, the planting is a little more complicated, though it is not difficult. It requires that one make a cone-shaped mound of soil in the bottom of the hole, which is used to give the roots proper structure, so they can grow in the right direction after planting.

The American Rose Society has a collection of articles on planting roses that can be worth reading.

My St. Louis, Missouri visitor might want to consule the Rose Society of St. Louis Missouri or the Central District of the American Rose Society for regional information.

Houston area rose-lovers can get their regional information from the South Central District of the American Rose Society, or from the Houston Rose Society. Donald Burger also has a page on planting container roses in this region. If antique roses and organic methods are more your cup of tea, have a look at the website for the Vintage Rosery in Needville, TX.


___________________________________
Read my other posts on Double Knockout roses.

Should have done this six months ago!

I got those double knockout roses in the ground this week. Definitely an improvement over the lantanas!

The dark green foliage of the roses works much better with the variegated foliage of the shrub behind them, and also balances the darker plants in that same bed. The red flowers ad punch that the purple flowers of the lantana never did. The tangled wildness of the lantanas never made much sense with formal box hedges anyway.

That's the nice thing about roses. They can be formal or casual, it's just a question of how they are dressed up!

Double Knockout Roses kick Lantanas' butt!

So when we moved into our home, there was a lot of landscaping already in place, most of which appeared to have been there since the house was built.

This included a little patch of rambling dwarf lantanas.

I eventually discovered that these things die back in the winter to the point of extreme ugliness. They would need to be pruned back almost to the ground in the spring.

Oh, yes, and they give me a rash when they touch my forearms.

So I started looking for something to replace them. Something with pretty dark green foliage that would keep its looks in wintertime.

Something with a long blooming season, and a profusion bright, red flowers

Something that could handle soil that stays wet for along time after it rains, but wouldn't shrivel up if things got a bit dry.

Something that wouldn't catch some nasty plant disease and die while I wasn't looking.

I finally settled on some Double Knockout roses. They are not antiques, but they are bred to be tough, even in lousy clay soils, and since I can't raise this existing bed to a height that would be good for an antique rose, Double Knockouts seem to be the best option in the rose department. They are supposed to be resistant to blackspot (unlike the Martha Gonzales roses I previously considered for this same location), and also tolerant of a wide range of temperatures and soil conditions. Being more compact than their sister, the original Knockout rose, these were appropriate for the limited space I have in this particular bed.

They will require significant pruning eventually, to keep them down to the size I want, but from what I have read, and from what I am told, they can handle that, too.

Oh yes, and did I mention that they are suitable for places as cold as USDA zone 4? That means they can survive temperatures down to -30 degrees Farenheit! (Though they need protection below 20 degrees, according to Floridata).

And the flowers are beautiful.

Those lantanas are toast.


Related:
An online fact sheet from the company that breeds these roses. Includes information on growth habits, height, width, water and soil requirements, blooming, hardiness zones, and so on. They have a downloadable fact sheet available as well.


Didn't find what you needed? Try my other posts on Double Knockout roses, or use the search box in my sidebar.

Oleander

Species: Nerium Oleander
Growth Habit: Large evergreen shrub--to 20 ft. Can be trained into tree form.
Soil: Tolerates many soil types
Moisture: Tolerant of drought and heavy rain
Light: Bright sun-part shade
USDA Hardiness Zone: 8-10
Nativity: North Africa, Southeast Asia, and the Mediterranean
Flowers: Summer. white, red, pink, salmon, light yellow
Propagation: Cuttings. Seed is difficult.

This plant is everywhere around here. Residential gardens, municipal gardens, neighborhood gardens. Not only is it everywhere around here, they are also quite common in Southern Calfiornia.

Now, any plant that can thrive with little maintenance in both semi-tropical and semi-arid climates must be pretty tough!

The pink specimen in the picture below is growing in my Grandfather's garden. My husband likes the white ones. So far, I like red best, and I'm hoping to integrate one of each color into our landscape someplace.


Please note that this plant is toxic when ingested by people and pets. Do not inhale the smoke from burning Oleander plants either.

For more information on these shrubs:
International Oleander Society

Elaeagnus Pungens

Light: Part to full sun.
Hardiness: USDA Zones 7-9.
Propagation: Propagated by softwood or hardwood cuttings and by seed.

This is one tough plant. There are a few on our property that came with the house. I don't do anything to them (in terms of water and fertilizer), and they grow just fine. It also appears that whoever planted the bed these plants are in did next to nothing to the native "gumbo" soil. This does not seem to prevent them from growing well.

This plant also appears to do well in the clay soils along the coast of Southern California. This is my grandfather's. He has allowed his to grow in its natural shape:


This one is mine.



When we moved into our house, it was shaped into a box hedge. This works ok, except in the summer, when the plant sends up long, vertical canes very rapidly. Last year, I pruned these off aggressively. Then I heard that these plants have fragrant flowers in the fall. Wondering if I had prevented it from blooming, I decided to let it go this year, and see what happens. So far, no blooming.

Eugenia Aggregata Links

The seeds arrived about two weeks ago, and are now planted in containers. We will see if they grow.

In my quest for information about how to grow Cherry of the Rio Grande from seed, I have come across a few websites, some of which I list here.

Desert-Tropicals.com (Includes fertilizing tips)

Tradewindsfruit.com

A website based out of the Canary Islands

Urbanharvest.org



Read the rest ofmy Eugenia Aggregata posts.

Wax Ligustrum aka. "Privet"

Photo Source: Magnolia Nursery. Click here for more photos.

This stuff is a staple in landscapes around here. It is in my garden, and I see it planted around many other homes as well. It also makes frequent appearances in municipal gardens in the greater Houston area, and I have also seen it growing quite happily in residential areas around coastal Southern California.

It is easy to understand why these are so common. They are both versitile and hardy. I haven't ever watered mine, but they are doing quite well. Other than the occasional light pruning to keep the hedge shape I want, I pretty much leave them alone. They can be grown in their natural shape, used as tall or medium hedges, and even trained into tree form. Be aware, however, if you try that last option, that you may find yourself trimming little branches off of the bottom to maintain the tree look as long as you have the plant.

In the early spring, you'll see very pretty displays of white flowers like these displayed at Dave's Garden. Blooming happens a little later in milder climates (such as in Southern California). While they may be blooming in California in June, here in Texas, they one can easily observe small berries forming, as the blooming season will have already passed. They are evergreen, so they work well anyplace you want something that keeps its leaves all year.

This plant does have one downside, however. The National Park Service considers this species to be invasive of natural areas in many Southern states, including Texas. Other species of Ligustrum are also listed.

Hibiscus!

Many varieties of hibiscus grow all over the Texas Gulf region, as well as in Southern California. In fact, the Houston Garden Book has an entire chapter on the origins, propagation, and care of these Chinese natives.

Our winters around here are cold enough that these will often need some heavy pruning after they die back from the winter chill, but they are worth having around just for the spectacular flowers.

Here are three examples (once again from my Grandfather's garden):

Black Beauty (Tentative identification.)


Fiesta


Ross Estey is probably my favorite out of the three. Its petals almost shimmer in the sunlight, and the strips of yellow on the back (pictured below) give this flower interest from every angle.

Silk Tree (Albizia julibrissin) a.k.a. "Mimosa"

I have been seeing these all over the place and wondering what they are. Now I know, thanks to a picture of one I found in a book. And I want one!

Photo Source

Click here for more photos

Unfortunately, they set seed, and are considered invasive in places like Texas, so I will have to consider that before I do anything drastic. Like planting one. It may be worth it though, for a pretty tree. :)



For more on this plant see the following:
Duke University
USDA profile for this plant.
Wikipedia

I have also seen them growing happily in Southern California.

Cherry of the Rio Grande (Eugenia aggregata)

This Brazilian native is not named for the Rio Grande river in the United States. :)



It produces an attractive red fruit, which has a flavor resembling cherries and raspberries at the same time. When I tried them myself, I found that they are a little on the tart side, which I like, but if you are into really sweet stuff, these may not be your thing. According to several sources I have read, the fruit is also useful as an ingredient in homemade jams and jellies.

The specimen pictured here is growing happily in my grandfather's yard in Southern California. According to the profile at DavesGarden.com, it also has been known to grow in Arizona, attesting to its tolerance for drought, and in Florida. Given that its native country is known for its tropical climate, it seems very likely that this species would grow in Texas as well.


I will be acquiring seeds soon from my grandfather's plant. We'll see how that goes. It takes about five years for these things to produce fruit--assuming I don't kill them first. :) More on that as it happens.

Links for more Info:

TradewindsFruit.com
Quisqualis.com (Includes pest info)


Read the rest ofmy Eugenia Aggregata posts.

Lantana?

According to commenters more experienced than I, this is another possible identification for the irritating (literally) plant that I posted about before.

Here is a photo and description of Lantana at Floridata.com.

Judging by the picture and description, it seems very likely that what I have is probably a dwarf variety.

A quick Google search reveals that Lantana is known to cause contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals.

Apparently, Lantana can also put you in a coma if you ingest them. That's what the Houston Garden Book says, anyway. Fortunately, the leaves are so rough, and the odor of cut and damaged plants is such that I can't imagine anyone thinking they are edible. They don't exactly strike me as being the ideal salad green.