Fungus, bacteria, and how to tell the difference.

"Herself" gives us another useful post on fungal and bacterial plant diseases, as well as other problems that may look like diseases.

Sophora Secundiflora (Texas Mountain Laurel)

Right around the first of March, I saw these on my Sophora secundiflora (a.k.a. Texas Mountain Laurel or Mescal Bean):


I had been somewhat concerned, since this plant has done nothing since I planted it last June. I was hoping that I had been able to keep the soil alkaline enough for it when I added amendments. (This species, being native to Texas, actually likes alkaline soils.) Somebody I met recently said that her landscapers made the mistake of planting hers in soil that was too acid, and the plant refused to grow until this was rectified.

Above is a later shot, taken some days later when the flowers opened more.



The photos below were taken toward the end of last week





Already, as of last Saturday, the flowers began to wilt, and seed pods are forming in their place.

There is also new growth on this plant. I will post pictures of this later.


I saw several larger specimens of Texas Mountain Laurel during a recent trip to San Antonio. They appear to be quite common over there. Some were trained as trees, and others were left to grow as large shrubs. Either way, there is nothing quite like being downwind from a large one of these when it is in full bloom. The fragrance is incredible! Some say resembles grape kool-aid, but I'd say I like it even better.


I believe I read someplace (I can't remember where now) that, as a legume, S. secundiflora fixes nitrogen, making them good neighbors for nitrogen-loving plants.

Incidentally, the seeds and pods from this plant are very poisonous and should not be ingested.

Waiting games.

No digging until the ground dries out some more. Rats.

For some reason the rain does not check with me before it comes. :)

Catnip update

So last spring I planted some catnip plants I picked up at the home improvement store.

They did great until the heavy rains came. Then root rot took them.



But not before they went to seed.


Little tiny catnip plants are now making appearances in the bed where the original two plants were.

The lessons here?

1. The people who tell you not to put good soil below ground level in gumbo are not kidding.
2. Catnip seeds grow spontaneously (and happily from the looks of things) when scattered in summertime.
3. Some plants do okay with their roots in gumbo, as long as they are in an area that is slightly higher than others, allowing for drainage.

Playing in the dirt.

The ground finally dried out enough to allow me to plant the two muscadines I obtained at the fruit tree sale. I've been keeping them in mulch up till now. A few of the roots (but thankfully not all) did get a little dry on one of them, so I hope no permanent damage was done. Time will tell.

Either way, it was a perfect day for it. Warm, with just enough of a breeze to keep me from getting overheated, and ground that was moist enough that I could dig in it, but not so moist that my digging would damage the soil structure.

And I cannot overemphasize the usefulness of wheelbarrows when one is taking out grass and putting in even themost slightly raised of beds.

There is something wonderful about being tired, covered in smudges of dirt, looking at a brand new bed with fresh plants in it and thinking, "Yeah, I did that.".

Water, Water everywhere--almost

It's the winter rainy season on the west coast.

I often track the weather in places along the Pacific where I know people. Today, it would seem, rain is predicted for all of the locations I watch, with the exception of Portland, OR and Seattle, WA. Quite the opposite of what most would expect given the sunny reputation of California, and the damp, rainy reputation of the Pacific Northwest.

Speaking of rain, my lawn is super-soggy right now. I stepped outside yesterday, only for a couple of minutes to check on a few plants, and when I returned to the house, I had mud spatters up to my knees, and caked mud around the cuffs of my pants. It's amazing what that Gumbo can do.

Search: "Planting trees in Black Gumbo"

Someone was looking for information on planting trees in our "Black Gumbo" soil. I have been wondering about this as well, as many of the native trees listed in the books I read are marked as requiring "good drainage". Good drainage just doesn't happen in heavy clay soils, and in an area as moist as this one, I was concerned that I would be limited in my tree options, so I started asking questions too.

My nurseryman says that trees grow ok in black gumbo if you plant them with the top of the root ball 2-4 inches above the surrounding ground level. He advises digging a hole, putting the tree in it, and filling it back in with the original soil, using what is left to create a mound shaped area around the sides of the root ball. He also says to avoid adding soil amendments below the surrounding ground level. Rather, add any compost and mulch by layering them over the top of the mound, and letting them work their way into the soil gradually. This keeps water from collecting around the roots, and encouraging root rot.

As is plain to anyone who views the natural landscape in this region, and even most of the more established residential subdivisions, it is possible for trees to grow quite happily around here in our local soil---even trees that are supposed to need "good drainage" can grow well if planted on a slope or in a mound, as outlined above.

In any region with unique climate or soil issues, native plants are often the easiest to maintain. Here is a list of native trees that do well in our soil.

Native Shrubs for Black Gumbo Soil

I recently posted a list of Native Trees that do well in the "Black Gumbo" soil we have here.

Here is the companion list of native shrubs that thrive in the same poorly drained conditions.

As was the case with the tree list, I have a list of shrubs that I printed out from the Native Plant Society of Houston website back in July, which has now disappeared from the web.

Fortunately, someone else has posted the same lists on Livejournal--with pictures.

But, just in case that vanishes too, I include the names of the shrubs here. I have no idea who the original author is, or I would be sure to list his or her name.

Strawberry Bush (Euonymus americana) is named after its fruit which resemble strawberries (not edible). the 1" scarlet fruits remain through fall, splitting open to show orange-red seeds. this upright shrub has green stems and deciduous leaves that turn bright red in the fall.


Wax Myrtle (Myrica cerifera) is an evergreen shrub or small tree to 18'. it is extremely tolerant after getting established. the leaves have a pleasant scent when brushed against. the tiney 1/8" gray berries are eaten by 40 different species of birds. there is a dwarf wax myrtle (myrica pusilla) which gets six feet tall or less and only tolerates dry soil.


Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) is a deciduous shrub that lives in in shallow water (up to 6") or plant in the ground. if you want butterflies get buttonbush. the late may to fall repeat blooms are perfectly round white balls with a heavy perfume. the bark has a speckled appearance and the fall nutlets are a favorite of waterfowl.


Virginia Sweetspire (Itlea virginica) has fragrant drooping white spires in spring. this 5' shrub has fall color ranging from yellow, orange, red and purple; in mild winters you get to enjoy these changing colors until spring.


Yaupon Holly (Ilex vomitoria) is an area-native evergreen shrub or small tree to 25' with stiff branches that make a dense cover that birds like to nest in. the birds like to eat the translucent red berries which are hard so they leave them on the tree all winter. yaupon is so adaptable it tolerates sun or shade and wet or dry soil.


Possumhaw Holly (Ilex decidua) loses its leavfes and is bare all winter. however, the female shurb or small tree is loaded with red berries all winter and is a standout.


Ti-ti ("tye-tye") or Leatherwood (Cyrilla racemiflora) is an outstanding semi-evergreen shrub that will grow in standing water (up to 6") or planted in the ground. in late may the fragrant white flower spikes look like petticoats. in summer the fruits turn rust color or ivory. in fall some of the leaves turn bright red and stay on the bush making a colorful picture.


Dwarf Palmetto (sabal minor) is a hardy, evergreen, fan-shaped palm. the stems are underground and the large leaves can reach 5'. it sends up a long bloom stalk to 6', with a spray of fragrant whitish blooms then it has fruit like black grapes which birds devour.


Possumhaw Viburnum (Viburnum nudum) has white flower clusters in march which turn into clusters of tiny pink, then blue-black fruit which taste like raisins. birds love the fruits too. possumhaw has outstanding wine-red fall color.


Salt Marsh Mallow (Kosteletzkya virginica) upright, branching shrub to 6 feet; grows in wet, often saline soils. the mallow forms dense showy clumps and the gray-green pointed leaves are fuzzy. 2 to 3" pink hibiscus-like flowers bloom from june - november and attract hummingbirds and swallowtail butterflies.

Native trees for Black Gumbo Soil

I have a list that I printed out from the Native Plant Society of Houston website back in July, which has now disappeared from the web.

Fortunately, someone else has posted the same list on Livejournal--with pictures.

But, just in case that vanishes too, I'll list the names of the trees here. I have no idea who the original author is, or I would be sure to list his or her name here.

Trees:

Bald Cypress (taxodium distichum) is a long lived shade tree (to 100") with feathery leaves. it has yellow-to-rust fall color then the leaves fall and its bald for the winter. the fruit is a 1" round cone.


Swamp Chestnut Oak (quercus michauxii) leaves turn bright red in the fall. this long lived shade tree can grow to 80 feet. it can take standing water for up to a week.


Water Oak (quercus nigra) is semi-evergreen which means that the leaves stay on in warm winters and fall of in cold. this shade tree grows rapidly to 30' (and usually gets taller) with three different leaf shapes.


Willow Oak (quercus phellos) has long, narrow willow-like leaves so theres not much to rake in fall.


River Birch (betula nigra) is a lovely shade tree which grows to a height of 90 ft. and has triangular leaves rounded on the bottom which turn yellow in the fall. the flaking bark is outstanding. saplings have red cherry-like bark and later peachy-white flaking to reveal darker peach-colored bark.


Black Gum (nyssa sylvatica) is a large shade tree to 100 feet with short crooked branches which come off the trunk at right angles. it turns bright red in early fall (sometimes even in august). the females have 1/2 inch black berries which birds relish.


Drummond Red Maple (acer rubrum variety drummondii) is a large shade tree to 90 feet tall. it grows fast but can live 50 years and features red flowers in january on males, and red winged fruits on females in spring called samuras. if the winter weather is cold enough, drummond red maple turns yellow then red before losing leaves.


Green Ash (fraxinus pennsylvanica) is a fast growing shade tree to 50' with yellow fall color. female green ashes have bunches of green matchstick-sized fruit which birds love.


Fringe Tree (chiocanthus virginicus) is an understory tree that blooms in spring with fragrant long-petaled white flowers that look like fringe all over the tree. the leaves are 4 to 8 inches long.


Parsley Hawthorn (crataegus marshallii) is an understory tree to 20 feet whose leaves look like parsley. this thorny tree has sparkling white flowers in spring with pink stamens, followed by red 1/3 inch fruit in the fall which birds and small mammals love, and yellow fall color. the gray bark flakes to reveal the orange inner bark. butterfly larva eat the foliage and birds like to nest in the tree.


Rough-Leaf Dogwood (cornus drummondii) is very different from its "cousin" the showy flowring dogwood (conus florida). the rough-leaf dogwood has clusters of small white blooms in spring rather than the showy white bracts of its cousin. it has white berries in the fall.


Snowbell (styrax americana) is a small ornamental tree with oval leaves that only gets 10 feet high. it has white blooms all over the tree in spring that hang downward showing the yellow stamens.


Indigo-Bush Amorpha or False Indigo (amorpha fruticosa) is an understory tree with small compound leaves and 4-8 inch spikes of purple flowers with electric orange anthers in spring. it gets 5 to 10 feet high and is good for erosion control.


Sweetbay Magnolia (magnolia virginiana) is much smaller than the southern magnolia and likes swampy places. it has the same fragrant flowers in spring but smaller (1"-3"). this understory tree is semi-evergreen, the leaves have white undersides. it has 2" brown cones with many compartments which split open and the 1/2 inch red seeds dangle by a thread-like structure.

For more listings of native plants for this region, I recommend Habitat Gardening for Houston and Southeast Texas by Mark and Mary Bowen. I purchased my copy at Urban Harvest. There are other good books out there too, which I have not yet had the opportunity to look at.

Planting Knockouts

Somebody from Missouri was searching for information about how to plant double knockout roses.

As with any rose, if it is in a container, the basic procedure is to dig a hole a little bigger than the root ball, and put the rose in it. The top of the root ball should be an inch or two above the surrounding bed. Water it in, and add a layer of mulch.

For Double Knockout roses, the label recommends spacing of 3-4 feet.

Even though Knockouts in their various forms are supposed to be able to take any kind of soil conditions, I did amend the soil in my bed a bit with some organic planting mix and a little leaf mold compost. Because of the drainage issues in this area though, I did not dig my amendments in too deep. I also added a little bone meal to the bottom of the holes I dug for them, to encourage root growth. As this bed had been mulched last spring, I moved the mulch layer out of the way before planting, and put it back afterward. I may add a new layer of mulch before the cold weather really gets going. Time will tell us if they happy in their new location.

For bare root roses, which were what I preferred when I lived in California, the planting is a little more complicated, though it is not difficult. It requires that one make a cone-shaped mound of soil in the bottom of the hole, which is used to give the roots proper structure, so they can grow in the right direction after planting.

The American Rose Society has a collection of articles on planting roses that can be worth reading.

My St. Louis, Missouri visitor might want to consule the Rose Society of St. Louis Missouri or the Central District of the American Rose Society for regional information.

Houston area rose-lovers can get their regional information from the South Central District of the American Rose Society, or from the Houston Rose Society. Donald Burger also has a page on planting container roses in this region. If antique roses and organic methods are more your cup of tea, have a look at the website for the Vintage Rosery in Needville, TX.


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Read my other posts on Double Knockout roses.

Search: When to plant catnip in Texas

Someone found my site while searching for information on when to plant catnip here.

As far as when to plant seeds, Maas Nursery recommends springtime. I have some seeds that I'll probably plant right after this next Easter.

As I noted in previous posts, I planted some catnip (Nepeta cataria) plants late last spring--they were easy to get at Home Depot. These did pretty well, until heavy rains and poor drainage took their toll. The plants appear to be barely clinging to life at this point, with the occasional green leaf here and there. Containers or raised beds are strongly recommended. Chances are, spring would have worked out great, if I had provided better drainage for my plants.

Also, according to this, catnip likes slightly alkaline soil.

Come cats enjoy catmint (Nepeta mussinii) as well. :)

Click here to see my catnip posts so far.

Double Knockout Roses kick Lantanas' butt!

So when we moved into our home, there was a lot of landscaping already in place, most of which appeared to have been there since the house was built.

This included a little patch of rambling dwarf lantanas.

I eventually discovered that these things die back in the winter to the point of extreme ugliness. They would need to be pruned back almost to the ground in the spring.

Oh, yes, and they give me a rash when they touch my forearms.

So I started looking for something to replace them. Something with pretty dark green foliage that would keep its looks in wintertime.

Something with a long blooming season, and a profusion bright, red flowers

Something that could handle soil that stays wet for along time after it rains, but wouldn't shrivel up if things got a bit dry.

Something that wouldn't catch some nasty plant disease and die while I wasn't looking.

I finally settled on some Double Knockout roses. They are not antiques, but they are bred to be tough, even in lousy clay soils, and since I can't raise this existing bed to a height that would be good for an antique rose, Double Knockouts seem to be the best option in the rose department. They are supposed to be resistant to blackspot (unlike the Martha Gonzales roses I previously considered for this same location), and also tolerant of a wide range of temperatures and soil conditions. Being more compact than their sister, the original Knockout rose, these were appropriate for the limited space I have in this particular bed.

They will require significant pruning eventually, to keep them down to the size I want, but from what I have read, and from what I am told, they can handle that, too.

Oh yes, and did I mention that they are suitable for places as cold as USDA zone 4? That means they can survive temperatures down to -30 degrees Farenheit! (Though they need protection below 20 degrees, according to Floridata).

And the flowers are beautiful.

Those lantanas are toast.


Related:
An online fact sheet from the company that breeds these roses. Includes information on growth habits, height, width, water and soil requirements, blooming, hardiness zones, and so on. They have a downloadable fact sheet available as well.


Didn't find what you needed? Try my other posts on Double Knockout roses, or use the search box in my sidebar.

Oleander

Species: Nerium Oleander
Growth Habit: Large evergreen shrub--to 20 ft. Can be trained into tree form.
Soil: Tolerates many soil types
Moisture: Tolerant of drought and heavy rain
Light: Bright sun-part shade
USDA Hardiness Zone: 8-10
Nativity: North Africa, Southeast Asia, and the Mediterranean
Flowers: Summer. white, red, pink, salmon, light yellow
Propagation: Cuttings. Seed is difficult.

This plant is everywhere around here. Residential gardens, municipal gardens, neighborhood gardens. Not only is it everywhere around here, they are also quite common in Southern Calfiornia.

Now, any plant that can thrive with little maintenance in both semi-tropical and semi-arid climates must be pretty tough!

The pink specimen in the picture below is growing in my Grandfather's garden. My husband likes the white ones. So far, I like red best, and I'm hoping to integrate one of each color into our landscape someplace.


Please note that this plant is toxic when ingested by people and pets. Do not inhale the smoke from burning Oleander plants either.

For more information on these shrubs:
International Oleander Society

Elaeagnus Pungens

Light: Part to full sun.
Hardiness: USDA Zones 7-9.
Propagation: Propagated by softwood or hardwood cuttings and by seed.

This is one tough plant. There are a few on our property that came with the house. I don't do anything to them (in terms of water and fertilizer), and they grow just fine. It also appears that whoever planted the bed these plants are in did next to nothing to the native "gumbo" soil. This does not seem to prevent them from growing well.

This plant also appears to do well in the clay soils along the coast of Southern California. This is my grandfather's. He has allowed his to grow in its natural shape:


This one is mine.



When we moved into our house, it was shaped into a box hedge. This works ok, except in the summer, when the plant sends up long, vertical canes very rapidly. Last year, I pruned these off aggressively. Then I heard that these plants have fragrant flowers in the fall. Wondering if I had prevented it from blooming, I decided to let it go this year, and see what happens. So far, no blooming.

Basil

I planted some of it this week in containers with organic potting soil, and kept them watered.

The seeds took only two days to start sprouting.

Wow.

I guess it's easy to grow basil in Houston if you plant your seeds in late August!

Catnip bites the dust. Or the Gumbo. Whatever.

I planted some catnip (Nepeta cataria) outside last spring for two reasons:

One, to encourage our neighbor's free-range cat to frolic in our yard. She likes to hunt.

Two, to see what would happen.

Well the cat disappeared, and the catnip flourished for awhile, even in the black gumbo soil, growing at a dizzying rate. "Hot dog!" I thought. "And without soil amendments or a raised bed or anything!"

Then July came. Rains got heavier, sun got hotter, and the catnip started to look a little peaked.

Now it is definitely on its last legs. It is dying from the roots up, instead of from the top down, like plants usually die (and I've killed my share, believe me). I'm thinking root rot may be the primary culprit, but I'm sure the heat isn't helping.

It'll be raised beds or containers (and hopefully better luck) next time.

Dioscorea bulbifera

Update (3-1-08): Despite the fact that the Houston Garden book lists them as an option for the garden, I checked the Texas Invasive Plants database, and discovered that this plant is on the list. Apparently Florida and Alabama aren't the only places where this plant can take over. It is also known to spread underground as well as by the builbils. This information was not in the USDA plants database at the time of this original post. Oops. :) And I still have those builbils someone gave me last August!

---------------------------------------------

Common names: Air Potato, Air Yam.
Duration: Deciduous perennial. May freeze to the ground in winter.
Nativity: South America, Africa, Australia
Light: full Sun
Ideal planting time: April
Growth rate: Fast.
Growth Habit: Vine--requires wire or string trellis for maximum growth.
Soil preference: Acidic-neutral, rich, well drained.
USDA zones: 9-11


According to the Houston Garden Book, these deciduous, fast-growing vines are easy to cultivate. Judging by the fact that I see them frequently in this region, I would venture to guess that the book is correct. They are also supposed to be pest resistant.

This plant seems to be quite at home in the tropical and Sub-tropical regions of the United States with thriving naturalized populations in Texas, Louisiana, Alabama, and Florida, as well as in Hawaii and Puerto Rico, according to the USDA Plants Database. In some places, it thrives too well, and is therefore considered a noxious and invasive weed in Florida and Alabama. It should not be planted in those states.

I recently acquired two bulbils from a very friendly person with an abundance of these (or something in the same genus) in her own Houston area garden. She likes them, and finds that they take little effort to grow. She just tosses the bulbils wherever she wants her plants to grow, and with watering, they will sprout. No digging, no burying.

I will probably start mine in containers, and find a place for them in my garden later.

See the profile and pictures at Dave's Garden.

Note: Dioscorea bulbifera is not edible!

Opuntia (Prickly Pear Cactus)

Generally, the damp, muggy climate of this region would discourage me from growing cacti. But, I might make an exception for this one. I saw a fairly happy looking one growing in a large container in front of someone's house today, which makes me think it just may be possible.

Opuntia ficus-indica. Photo Source: Wikipedia

Why would I even bother?

It so happens that young prickly pear pads are a good, nutritious food, once you remove the spines. I learned this from my grandmother, who prepares a nopales salad from time to time. Being diabetic, my grandmother also appreciates the fact that nopales are good for her blood sugar levels. The fruits are edible as well (probably not for diabetics), but I have never personally tried them.

The two species that I most often hear of being used are Opuntia streptacantha and Opuntia ficus-indica, both natives of Mexico. The latter of these is supposed to taste better. I honestly have no idea which I have tried. My grandmother has a cactus growing in her garden which she occasionally uses for food, but I do not know which exact species it is. It does bear a strong resemblance to the one in the picture above.

Propogation of these from cuttings is fairly easy, from what my grandma tells me. She cut a lobe from another cactus, buried the bottom half in the ground with the top half sticking up, kept it watered for a little while, and just watched it grow. That was about 20 years ago, and it is well established, and (by my guess) at least six feet tall now. In her case, it probably helps that the soil she was dealing with is the sandy kind that this cactus enjoys best. If planted in a hot, sunny location that they like, these things will thrive with little to no maintenance. At least, they will in Southern California. I have yet to see what will happen in the wetter parts of Texas.

Worth trying? Yes. Do I have the slightest clue where to go to get one around here? Nope. Not without knocking on the doors of strangers' houses. Hm. Not quite desperate enough for that.

Wintergreen Boxwood (Buxus microphylla japonica)

Saw some at Lowe's today, and thought, "So that's what those are!" I have several in my garden (they seem to be a landscaping staple around here), and I like them. I also like knowing what I have.

Here is what they look like:

Photo from Magnolia Gardens Nursery. See their website for additional plant info.

Though not native to this region, they grow quite well in my garden, even in the mucky "gumbo" soil we have in this region. I don't even water them, just let the local rainfall do its thing. Once in awhile I prune them to keep the shape I want. Good, hardy, low maintenance little plants.

Yup.

Book Review: The Houston Garden Book.

Overall impression: Excellent.

Pros: Specific advice for the southeast corner of Texas in which Houston is located, and the unique soil and climate issues that affect us here. This book tells you exactly what will grow here, and when and where and how to plant it. Lots of plant descriptions and recommendations, lists of plant species that thrive in this region, plant care tips, pest control info, and many pretty pictures to inspire you. The section on edible plants was very helpful, and listed what is in season during what part of the year, so you can plan your food-related planting accordingly. It made me want to run outside and start an herb garden.Another awesome feature is that it includes suggested organic gardening methods and common synthetic chemical methods of plant care, so you can use either or both.

Cons: Not enough pictures! While the lists of plants are helpful, I have no idea what they look like, which means I need to either get another book, or search for them online if I want to be sure a listed plant is right for my vision for my garden. A few more illustrations in the pest chapter would be useful as well. Also, no info on antique roses, though it has an entire chapter dedicated to more recent varieties that can survive here. I ended up getting a second book for that.

Summary: Nearly everything you need to know about gardening here, you can get from this book.